A man’s jumpsuit of teal wool felt features a leather thong worn over the trousers: one part Superman, two parts Tom of Finland.Įspecially when compared to the day wear, most of Mr. Other outfits from the late ’60s are rather less unisex, like a “porthole” dress with cutout nipples. Cardin proposed a sleek, forward-dawning fashion that sometimes dissolved gender distinctions - above all in his “Cosmocorps” collections of the mid-1960s, whose zipped sweaters and belted jumpsuits could be worn by men and women. Like his colleagues André Courrèges and Mary Quant, Mr.
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Cardin took his space travel seriously: In 1969, he went to Houston and quizzed officials at NASA headquarters about how to stay stylish on the moon. One mannequin sports a brown sweater and paneled skirt as well as a Plexiglas helmet, like a on-trend Apollo astronaut. A pink leather jacket from 1980 has bulging shoulders like the pauldrons of medieval armor the arms of a wool woman’s suit disguise the wearer’s body with oversized fabric circles. Where he excelled was in bold, futuristic day wear, often with unorthodox cuts that reshaped or disguised the body. Cardin offered extreme shoulders in this leather jacket (1980) and red wool coat with circular details (1981).Credit…Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum Ensembles from Pierre Cardin’s “Cosmocorps” collections of 19.Credit…Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum Mr. Cardin rich - he would go on to buy and to franchise the famed Parisian bistro Maxim’s - even as these licensing arrangements left the Cardin brand, stuck onto bottled water and tinned cassoulet, diffuse and cheapened. He masterminded a business approach now gone general: glamorous couture as a loss-leader, ready-to-wear as the profit center and licensing deals to radiate your name worldwide. Cardin was ahead of his time in anticipating the allure of high fashion for the middle classes, enjoying the 30-year postwar boom later christened the Trente Glorieuses. It was one of the first by a named designer, and for his effrontery he was kicked out of the French haute couture guild.
Cardin did something shocking: He mounted a ready-to-wear presentation, at Printemps department store in Paris.
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Here are a beige coatdress of beige bouclé wool, plus a fitted day suit worn by Jackie Kennedy both have thick roll collars that would become a Cardin signature. He won acclaim for his “bubble dresses” (disappointingly absent from this show), cinched at the waist and hem. Later he worked in the studios of Elsa Schiaparelli and Dior, went into costuming and presented his first couture collection in 1953. After the liberation of France, he moved to Paris and apprenticed with the couturier Jeanne Paquin. Born Pietro Cardin in 1922, he fled with his family from fascist Italy to Vichy, which would become the seat of France’s nominal government in 1940. Cardin, one of the most commercially successful of all French designers (and still working at 97), was never a great artist in the manner of Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent. Cardin designed in a young, newly prosperous Paris, seen here on mannequins as well as in photographs and films of Jeanne Moreau, Mia Farrow and the cast of “Star Trek.” Some are chic, many are risible all of it has an exuberant view of the future that marks it as decidedly from the past. But its core are the space-age outfits that Mr. With 85 ensembles, the earliest dating from 1953 and the most recent from this decade, “Future Fashion” is not, strictly speaking, another ’60s show. Cardin’s stretchy knits and swooping miniskirts. The Concorde was flying, Françoise Hardy and Joe Dassin were singing and women (and men) cruised the Left Bank in Mr. “Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion,” now on view at the Brooklyn Museum, offers a swinging reintroduction to Parisian style in the 1960s and 1970s, when the New Look gave way to thigh-high boots and dresses of heat-molded synthetics. This country had no monopoly on grooviness. It seems Americans can’t get enough of the era, and the optimism that percolated amid great social upheaval. But well beyond our borders, before the 1973 oil crisis tanked the global economy, other countries were partying and protesting just as hard, and a youth culture of sex, drugs and rock ’n’ roll spanned the globe. and Neil Armstrong, Woodstock and the Manson murders. Our museums, movies and magazines have been on a yearslong binge of ’60s nostalgia, pegged to a rolling sequence of 50th anniversaries: the Rev. Pierre Cardin’s Space-Age Fashion Takes Us Back to the Future
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